Showing posts with label exhibition roses. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exhibition roses. Show all posts

26 April 2010

Best climbing roses (1902)


Chapter 23 (extract 4) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which the best climbing roses are listed.
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Illustration: Crimson Rambler over a gate.
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CLIMBING VARIETIES
  • Climbing Niphetos (T.).
  • Climbing Perle des Jardins (T.).
  • Fortune's Yellow (N.).
  • Marechal Niel (N.).
  • Turner's Crimson Rambler (CI. Poly.).
  • William Allen Richardson (N.).
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Best roses for greenhouse cultivation (1902)



Chapter 23 (extract 3) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which the best roses for greenhouse use are listed.

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Illustration: Rose Ulrich Brunner grown as a potted standard (from Foster-Melliar "The Book of the Rose" 1894).

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THE BEST ROSES FOR GROWING UNDER GLASS
  • Anna Olivier (T.).
  • Baronoss Rothschild (H.P.)
  • Bridesmaid (T.).
  • Captain Hayward (H.P.).
  • Catherine Mermet (T.).
  • Caroline Testout (H.T.).
  • General Jacqueminot (H.P.).
  • Innocente Pirola (T.).
  • La France (H.T.).
  • Liberty (H.T.).
  • Madame de Watteville (T.).
  • Madame Hoste (T.).
  • Madame Lambard (T.).
  • Marie Van Houite (T.).
  • Merveille de Lyon (H.P.).
  • Mrs. John Laing (H.P).
  • Mrs. R. G. Sharman - Crawford (H.P).
  • Mrs. W. J. Grant (H.T.).
  • Niphetos (T.).
  • Perle des Jardins (T.).
  • Souvenir de S. A. Prince (T.).
  • Souvenir d'un Ami (T.).
  • S. M. Rodocanachi (H.P.).
  • Sunrise (T.).
  • The Bride (T.).
  • Ulrich Brunner (H.P.).
  • Viscountess Folkestone (H.T.)
  • Anna Olivier.
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Best garden or decorative roses (1902)


Chapter 23 (extract 2) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which the best roses for general garden use are listed.
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Illustration: Paul's Carmine Pillar
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Abbreviations, &c., used in the Following Lists
A. Autumn-flowering. Roses which flower in the summer, and again, with more or less freedom, in the autumn.
S. Summer-flowering. Roses which only flower once within a year.
Cl. Poly. Climbing Polyantha.
H.C. Hybrid China.
H.N. Hybrid Noisette.
H.P. Hybrid Perpetual.
H.T. Hybrid Tea.
N. Noisette.
Pom. Pompon.
Sin. Single-flowered.

GARDEN OR DECORATIVE ROSES
In the following list the varieties have been arranged
according to the number of times they were staged in
the prize stands at the Exhibition held last year in the
Temple Gardens, which was an unusually large and representative
one:—

  • Gustave Regis (H.T.).
  • Marquise de Salisbury (H.T.).
  • William Allen Richardson (N .)
  • Madame Pernet Ducher (H.T.).
  • Rosa macrantha (Sin.).
  • Turner's Crimson Rambler (CI. Poly.).
  • Camoens (H.T.).
  • Madame Chédane Guinoisseau (T.).
  • Bardou Job (H.T.).
  • Alister Stella Gray (N.).
  • L'Idéal (N.).
  • Madame Falcot (T.).
  • Reine Olga de Wurtemberg (H.T.).
  • Souvenir de Catherine Guillot (T.).
  • Paul's Carmine Pillar (Sin.).
  • The Garland (H.C.).
  • Claire Jacquier (CI. Poly.).
  • Anne of Geierstein (Sweetbrier).
  • Laurette Messimy (C).
  • Ma Capucine (T.).
  • Mignonette (Pom.).
  • Papillon (T.).
  • Paul's Single White (Sin.).
  • Crested Moss (Moss).
  • Homere (T.).
  • Perle d'Or (Pom.).
  • Rosa moschata alba (Sin.).
  • Rosa Mundi (Damask).
  • Brenda (Sweet-brier).
  • Madame Pierre Cochet (T.).
  • Meg Merrilies (Sweet-brier).
  • Red Damask (Damask).
  • Rosa himalayaca (Sin.).
  • Rosa lucida plena.
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Best roses for exhibition (1902)


Chapter 23 (extract 1) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which the best roses for exhibition are listed.
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Illustration: Rose Prince Arthur (from Foster-Melliar "The Book of the Rose" 1894).
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See also:
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CHAPTER XXIII
SOME LISTS OF THE BEST ROSES FOR VARIOUS USES
Abbreviations, &c., used in the Following Lists
A. Autumn-flowering. Roses which flower in the summer, and again, with more or less freedom, in the autumn.
S. Summer-flowering. Roses which only flower once within a year.
Cl. Poly. Climbing Polyantha.
H.C. Hybrid China.
H.N. Hybrid Noisette.
H.P. Hybrid Perpetual.
H.T. Hybrid Tea.
N. Noisette.
Pom. Pompon.
Sin. Single-flowered.

By "exhibition Roses" is meant those varieties
which are sufficiently large and perfect in form to be
staged as separate blooms in boxes at the exhibitions.

By "garden Roses" is meant all other varieties
which are never so exhibited—except in those cases
where an exhibition Rose is described as good both
for exhibition and for garden decoration.

SELECT LIST OF ROSES FOR EXHIBITION
In the following selections the varieties have been
arranged, under their different colours, according to
the average number of times they were staged in the
prize stands at the recent leading exhibitions of the
National Rose Society.

EXHIBITION ROSES
HYBRID PERPETUALS AND HYBRID TEAS
White and Cream
  • Bessie Brown (H.T.).
  • Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.).
  • Marchioness of Londonderry.
  • Margaret Dickson,
  • White Lady (H.T.).

N.B.—Mildred Grant (H.T.); a lovely new creamy white variety; it should be included in every exhibitor's collection, however small.

Pink and Pale Rose
  • Mrs. John Laing.
  • Caroline Testout (H.T.).
  • Mrs. W. J. Grant (H.T.).
  • Her Majesty.
  • Mrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford.
  • La France (H.T.).
  • Madame Gabriel Luizet.
  • Ulster.
  • Killarney (H.T.).
  • Baroness Rothschild.

Medium Red and Rose
  • Ulrich Brunner.
  • Marquise Litta (H.T.)
  • Gustave Piganeau.
  • Suzanne M. Rodocanachi.
  • Francois Michelon.
  • Helen Keller.
  • Dupuy Jamain.
  • Etienne Levet.
  • Tom Wood.
  • Duchesse de Morny.

Crimson
  • A. K. Williams.
  • Captain Hayward.
  • Alfred Colomb.
  • Marie Baumann.
  • Fisher Holmes.
  • Victor Hugo.
  • Comte de Raimbaud.
  • General Jacqueminot.
  • Duke of Edinburgh.
  • Dr. Andry.
  • E. Y. Teas.
  • Duchess of Bedford.

N.B.—The latest addition in this colour is Ben Cant, a most promising new Hybrid Perpetual.

Dark Crimson
  • Horace Vernet.
  • Earl of Dufferin.
  • Prince Arthur.
  • Charles Lefebvre.
  • Dark Crimson
  • Duke of Wellington.
  • Louis Van Houtte.
  • Xavier Olibo.

TEAS AND NOISETTES
White and Cream
  • White Maman Cochet.
  • The Bride.
  • Innocente Pirola.
  • Souvenir de S. A. Prince.
  • Muriel Grahame.
  • Souvenir d'Elise Vardon.
  • Niphetos.

Pink and Pale Rose
  • Maman Cochet.
  • Catherine Mermet.
  • Madame Cusin.
  • Bridesmaid.
  • Mrs. Edward Mawley.
  • Souvenir d'un Ami.
  • Madame de Watteville.
  • Ernest Metz.
  • Cleopatra.

Yellow, Buff, and Orange
  • Comtesse de Nadaillac.
  • Madame Hoste.
  • Marechal Niel (N.).
  • Medea.
  • Marie Van Houtte.
  • Caroline Kuster (N.).
  • Anna Olivier.

N.B.—Lady Roberts, a beautiful salmon pink sport from Anna Olivier, judging by the blooms recently exhibited, promises to be a charming addition to the Tea and Noisette section.

24 April 2010

Roses for exhibition - at the exhibition


Chapter 21 (extract 3) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which Mr Mawley gives his tips on staging the blooms on the day of the show.
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Illustration: Exhibition box with rose blooms arranged.
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At the Exhibition.—It is always well to reach the show early, so that plenty of time may be available for setting up the Roses. The boxes intended for exhibition should at once be taken to the places where they are to be staged. In that way their position is secured, and they should not require to be moved after the blooms are once arranged, although this has unfortunately occasionally to be done if the exhibition be in any way crowded. After the lid of the first box to be arranged has been removed, and the box tilted up at the back by means of two small flower-pots, the flowers should in the first instance be untied, and any which are overblown or otherwise unsuitable be taken out of the box and replaced by fresher specimens from the box containing the spare blooms. The largest flowers should be placed in the back row and the smallest in front. As far as practicable the dark and light coloured Roses should be set up alternately so that they may be distributed equally over the box, inserting any yellow flowers there may be towards the centre of the arrangement. It is a good plan to place the two choicest blooms in each row at the ends.

The Roses having been thus arranged as regards colour, the individual flowers should be set up to the required height. Those in the back row should be the highest, those in the front the lowest, and those in the middle row at an intermediate height, but in each row all the blooms should be at the same level. Before finally setting up each bloom it will be necessary to see that it is in exhibition form; that is to say, in every case any discoloured or ragged petals should be removed, and the outer row of petals firmly but very gradually pressed back at the base into a nearly horizontal position with the help of a large camel's-hair brush. In addition to this the younger blooms may require to have another row or more of petals treated in the same way to help the flower to open; a sharp puff given with the mouth to the inner petals will also often prove of material assistance in effecting this.

Should any bloom threaten to become too much developed before the judges come round, it will be well to tie up the centre petals again. The flowers having been thus carefully arranged, the lid should be replaced on the box and nearly, but not quite, closed. As soon as the order is given for the box lids to be removed, the lids should be taken off, the few remaining ties removed from the blooms on which they have been replaced, and any final touches to the arrangement given that may be necessary.

Exhibiting Garden or Decorative Roses—
Culture and Pruning.—These so-called "garden" Roses belong to such different sections that it is impossible to lay down any special rules as to culture. In all cases, however, the object aimed at should be the same, namely, to obtain strong-growing plants of all the varieties cultivated, to thin out the shoots sparingly, and to prune back lightly those that remain. The climbing varieties should be treated as recommended in the chapter on pruning (p. 104), those of less vigorous growth should be cultivated as free-flowering bushes, while in the case of dwarf-growing Teas and Pompons the same bushy habit should as far as possible be encouraged.

Cutting the Flowers.—As the cutting and arranging of "garden" Roses takes considerably longer than does that of the exhibition varieties, it is advisable to commence operations earlier in the afternoon preceding the show day. In selecting the sprays those on which the most forward flowers are only half open should be chosen, and the remainder should have either well-developed buds or buds just showing colour. Having gathered sufficient shoots of any one sort to make an exhibition bunch, those selected should be wired and placed deeply in a bowl, or other vessel holding plenty of water, before proceeding to cut the remaining bunches. When all are gathered, the sprays should be arranged in bunches and their stems tied together with raffia ready for exhibition on the morrow. Some taste and care are necessary in arranging these bunches so that the flowers are displayed to the best advantage. After this has been done they will require to be again placed in water and removed to a dry cellar or other cool place for the night. On the following morning these bunches must be taken from the receptacles in which they were placed and carefully laid on soft paper in the bottom of a Rose-box from which the tray has been removed, or, better still, in a lady's cardboard dressbox.

On arriving at the exhibition the bunches should at once be placed in water in the vases in which they are to be exhibited. The same principle should be followed as when setting up exhibition Roses; that is to say, the largest bunches should be placed at the back, the smallest in the front, and the light and dark varieties arranged as far as possible alternately, using larger and higher vases for the bunches in the back row than for those in the front. Bunches of garden Roses should not be crowded, or the foliage and habit will not be properly shown.
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Roses for exhibition - management of the blooms


Chapter 21 (extract 2) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which Mr Mawley gives the techniques used by exhibitors to ensure that blooms remain of exceptional quality for the show bench and are not damaged.
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Illustration: Shelter for exhibition rose blooms as used in Mr Mawley's garden, Rosebank.
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Disbudding.—At the end of each shoot that has been left on the plants after they have been thinned will ultimately appear, as a rule, three flower-buds. Of these only the centre one should be allowed to remain, the two others being removed as soon as this can conveniently be done. Some use a pointed quill for this purpose, but with a little practice these small buds can be easily taken off with the fingers.

Shading.—The blooms of some varieties, and more particularly the crimson Hybrid Perpetuals, are very liable to become burnt if exposed to the direct rays of the sun in hot weather. It will therefore be necessary to afford them some protection. There are many kinds of shades used for this purpose, but the simplest and most efficient are those made of calico stretched tightly over a conical frame made of stout zinc wire, as they are cool, well-ventilated, and sufficiently waterproof, and yet do not seriously obstruct the light.

These shades should be 12 inches across in the widest part, and 9 inches high. The zinc socket attached to the frame must be made to slide up and down a square wooden rod in which holes have been pierced at intervals, so that by means of a metal pin the shade can be adjusted to any height required. These zinc frames can be made by any blacksmith, or a smaller shade of the same kind can be obtained ready made of Mr. J. Pinches, of Crown Street, Camberwell.

It is advisable to have a good supply of these shades, as they not only shield choice blooms from the sun, but are still more useful in protecting them from rain and heavy dews.

Rose Boxes.—These are usually made of half-inch deal, and are painted throughout dark green. The following are the regulation sizes: viz., for twenty four blooms, 3 feet 6 inches long; for eighteen blooms, 2 feet 9 inches long; for twelve blooms, 2 feet long; for nine blooms, i foot 6 inches long ; and for six blooms, i foot long. For eight trebles (three blooms arranged in the box triangularly), 3 feet 6 inches long; for six trebles, 2 feet 9 inches long ; and for four trebles, 2 feet long. All the boxes must be 4 inches high in front and 18 inches wide. These are all outside measurements. Inside each box there should be a tray pierced with holes to receive the tubes in which the blooms are exhibited.

Exhibition Tubes. — The best form of exhibition tube is that known as Foster's Tube, as the bloom can be placed by means of the wires supplied with the tubes at any required height without raising the tube itself, and there is a holder in front for the reception of the card on which the name of the Rose is printed or written. These tubes can be obtained of Mr. H. Foster, Ashford, Kent.

Cutting the Blooms.—If the show be a local one and easy of access it will be well to cut the most forward blooms on the evening of the day previous to the exhibition, and those less advanced and likely to improve on the plants during the night, early on the following morning. But if the show be at a distance it will be advisable to cut the blooms early in the evening, as it is found that if cut when they are going to sleep, as it were, in the evening, they develop less rapidly on the journey to the show, and consequently travel better than those cut in the morning when they are growing rapidly. It is no use cutting any blooms which are fully expanded, except in rare cases, as they will be too far advanced for exhibition by the time they reach the show. The choicest half-developed blooms should be selected ; that is to say, those which are large for the variety, and at the same time regular in shape and of good colour. The boxes should in the first instance be placed in a cool shed, the tubes filled with water, and the surface of the box covered with the freshest and greenest moss obtainable. It is not a good plan to set up Roses in a shady place in the open air. This being done, the selected blooms, as they are cut, should be placed in the tubes and labelled. The blooms must be cut with stems sufficiently long to allow of their ends reaching the water when raised to the required height at the exhibition. A little experience will show in what stage of development the different varieties, according to their respective staying power, require to be cut. The best blooms should next be chosen, and after having been wired, should be placed in the box intended for exhibition and labelled. Blank labels of a suitable size can be obtained of Messrs. Blake and Mackenzie, School Lane, Liverpool, or they can be had from the same firm with the names of the Roses already printed on them. In order to keep the flowers from unduly expanding on their way to the show, each bloom should be tied round with double Berlin wool. In doing this the outer row of petals should be left free. The best form of tie, as it will not slip and yet can be readily removed, is made by taking one end of a piece of wool about a foot long and twisting it twice round the other end. The loop thus formed is placed over the middle of the bloom and inside the outer or guard petals, and then drawn by the two ends of the tie close round the flower, so as to clasp it firmly and yet not too tightly. Before being left for the night the hd should be put on the box, and the end of a small flower-pot be inserted in the centre of the lid to keep it a few inches open in the front so as to allow of a free access of air to the blooms. For every bloom intended to be staged there should be taken to the show, in a separate box, at least one extra bloom (not necessarily of the same variety), and all these spare blooms should, as a rule, be younger than those in the box designed for the exhibition. It will not be necessary to wire or label these extra blooms, but it will be well to place between the inner petals of each of them a tiny slip of writing paper with the name of the variety upon it, so that there may be no doubt of its identity when selected to take the place of another bloom at the show.- The centres of all but the youngest blooms should also be tied. When travelling to the exhibition care must be taken that the Rose boxes are at all times kept level, and for this purpose it will be necessary to personally superintend the placing of the boxes in the vans of the trains, and their removal therefrom, and in the same way to see they are properly treated when travelling by cab or other conveyance.
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More: Roses for exhibition - techniques of cultivation; manuring; at the exhibition.

Roses for exhibition - manuring


Chapter 21 (extract 1) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which Mr Mawley describes techniques of manuring and the importance of manure to the production of prize blooms.
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Illustration: Exhibition Rose, Mrs Edward Mawley (Tea)
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See also: Roses for exhibition - techniques of cultivation; management of the blooms; at the exhibition.
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Manuring.—As Roses are gross feeders, it will be necessary to keep the plants well nourished by the threefold application of (i) farmyard or other animal manure, (2) artificial manure, and (3) liquid manure.

(1) In the autumn a good dressing of half -rotten manure—farmyard for preference—should be lightly dug into the beds between the plants, taking care to disturb the roots as little as possible.

(2) In March, and again in May, either Clay's fertilizer, or other artificial Rose manure, should be dusted around each plant, and afterwards mixed with the surface soil by means of a hand-fork. A small handful of either of these manures will be a sufficient application for each Rose.

(3) As soon as the flower-buds are formed the plants should be watered once a week with liquid manure. The first watering, especially if the soil be at all dry at the time, should be very weak. The strength of the liquid after this may be increased, but at no time should the colour be deeper than that of pale ale. An excellent liquid manure may be made by mixing in a tubful of water some fresh cow manure, soot, and guano, in the following proportions: three parts cow manure, one part soot, and one part guano. After these ingredients have been thoroughly mixed with the water, the concentrated liquid thus obtained should be freely diluted with clear water before being used. The day after each watering the surface soil should be hoed or lightly forked over to keep it open and accessible to light and air. It is often thought by non-exhibitors that the fine blooms they see at the Rose shows are almost entirely the result of heavy manuring. This is a great mistake, for the size and quality of the flowers depends much more on the free use of the hoe and the unremitting attention that exhibitors bestow on their plants than on the amount of nourishment they may have received in the way of manure.

Mulching.—On hot, dry, shallow soils, it will be necessary to cover the ground on which the Roses are growing with a layer of half-decayed manure in order to keep it moister and less liable to changes of temperature than it would otherwise be. This mulching should, however, not be put on earlier than the beginning of June. Mulching should be dispensed with wherever it is not absolutely needed, as a frequent loosening of the surface soil is no doubt preferable to any such covering.
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Roses for exhibition - techniques of cultivation


Chapter 21 (extract 1) of "Roses for English Gardens" by Jekyll and Mawley (1902), in which Mr Mawley outlines the special methods of cultivation that a keen exhibitor will use in order to obtain exceptional blooms. Mr Mawley used these technique in his own rose garden at "Rosebank" and was a keen exhibitor.
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Illustration: Mr Mawley's rose garden - source of exhibition blooms
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See also: Roses for exhibition - manuring; management of the blooms; at the exhibition.
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CHAPTER XXI
EXHIBITING ROSES
It is often said by those who are beginning Rose culture that they have no idea of ever exhibiting their flowers, but that they simply intend to grow Roses for their own pleasure and for the decoration of their garden. However, after a few years, if their enthusiasm has not by that time altogether evaporated, the care and attention they have given their plants has led to such excellent results that they are often tempted to enter the lists, in order to test their skill against that of other competitors. The great charm that the Rose possesses over most other flowers for exhibition purposes is that it is a true amateur's flower —a flower that any amateur with moderate leisure can cultivate entirely with his own hands; or if the collection be too large to allow of this being done, he can undertake the lighter and more important parts of the work himself and leave the digging, manuring and watering to be carried out by the gardener under his own special supervision.

The directions that have previously been given as to planting, pruning, &c., apply, for the most part, to exhibitors and non-exhibitors alike. The principal difference consists in the more constant care and attention that the exhibitor is obliged to give his plants in order to keep himself in line with other competitors. It may be well, however, to draw attention to those details of culture which require special care on the part of the exhibitor. In order to obtain exceptionally fine blooms his collection must be kept clean and well nourished, and at the same time the strength of each plant must be directed into certain restricted channels; in other words, the object should be to have strong and healthy plants, bearing only a limited number of shoots.

Planting.—The Roses may be grown in separate parallel beds five feet wide, containing three rows of plants, with grass paths between the beds. More frequently, however, a piece of ground, either in part of the garden itself or in an adjoining field, is dug up and prepared to receive the whole collection. In the latter case the Roses should be arranged in double lines; that is to say, between each second row of plants a space three feet wide should be left to enable the cultivator to attend readily to the wants of the Roses on each side of this space or pathway. The plants in the rows should be two feet apart, and the same distance should separate the rows. By this arrangement much time is saved, a matter of great importance, considering that each plant will require to be visited if not every day at all events every other day during the growing and exhibiting seasons. It is a mistake to grow a larger number of plants than can receive this amount of individual attention.

Pruning.—The best month in which to prune the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas is March. It will be well to commence operations early in that month, and to continue the work at intervals during the course of it. When thinning out the shoots of the Hybrid Perpetuals, from three to six shoots, according to the strength of the individual plant, should be allowed to remain. By the best shoots is meant those which are the strongest and at the same time well ripened; gross, sappy shoots are of little service. When pruned the shoots should be left from three to six inches in length, according to the vigour of the variety—the stronger growers being the least severely pruned.

The Hybrid Teas will also require close pruning as a rule, but the shoots of the strong-growing varieties should be left longer than is recommended for the Hybrid Perpetuals.

The pruning of the Teas must be deferred until April, when, after thinning out the weak, sappy and dead shoots, those that remain should be cut back half their length. Of course, should the previous winter have been unusually severe there will be little choice in the matter, for in that case, after removing the dead wood, the shoots which remain will have to be cut back until sound wood is met with, even should this be beneath the level of the soil.

Insects and other Pests.—These must be diligently sought for and prompt measures taken to destroy them and thus prevent them from spreading. For this purpose a daily inspection of the plants during the growing season will be necessary. It cannot be too often repeated that most of these pests can with comparative ease be kept in check if dealt with directly they make their appearance, but when once they have become established, the difficulties of the cultivator are increased tenfold.

Thinning out the Young Shoots.—As the object of the exhibitor is to allow each plant only a limited number of shoots and to confine the flow of sap to these particular growths, it will be necessary soon after the young shoots appear to remove nearly all the other growths until the first crop of flowers has been produced. It is not advisable to begin this thinningout process too early, as, in the case of harm from spring frosts, some of the later-made shoots may be required to take the place of some of those originally designed for the production of the exhibition blooms; besides which, it is only when the young shoots are moderately advanced that it will be possible to judge which of them it will be advisable to retain or to remove.

According to the strength of the plant, from three to six flowering shoots should ultimately be left on each. This art of thinning out is an important one and can only be mastered after some little experience. As a rule the growths that are likely to bear the best flowers are the strong ones which come from the top bud of the shoots that have been pruned. Some of the moderately strong shoots which spring from the base of the plant may also be retained, but not so the extra strong sucker-like growths. These should be cut down to within six inches of the ground, for not only will they monopolise an undue proportion of the vigour of the plant, but the blooms they produce will be found as a rule to be coarse and unfit for exhibition.

This process of thinning should be continued until the buds on the selected shoots are showing colour.
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More: Roses for exhibition - manuring; management of the blooms; at the exhibition.